Back from the Trek

I arrived back from the trek a little while ago. It was early in the trek that I abandoned the fantasy, upon return, of a comfortable room in a guesthouse with a nice, hot shower. That sort of thing isn't really available. Some days there isn't even water. I had the choice of a cold shower or a warm bucket shower. I chose the cold shower and sorry, no towel. "No problem" said the man, "you're all alone in there", and then he waggled his hips in front of me for bit too long.

I dropped off my laundry (I'm gonna skip the details of this storefront and its proprietor) and headed for the computer. The first thing I wanted to do on the internet was email my friend Eric. I met this guy biking across the US. I told him he could take the biggest, blackest Sharpie and use it to cross my name off the list of potential participants for the Pacific Crest Trail hike. This is a trail, out West, where you have to hike something like 18 miles per day for three months to complete it without getting pinched by the weather on either side.

Our trek was fun, but I'm glad it was not 6 days. I know what you're thinking: Max, you're a fat, lazy blob, how did you do a five day trek in the Himalayas? These are some serious mountains, not like that little acne patch you find in Southeastern British Columbia. (Just kidding, Lisa and Gusti). Well the answer is mules. What I paid for was a giude and a porter. I thought this would mean a guide and another guy to help carry the sleeping and cooking stuff and I would still carry all my gear. But not so; what porter meant was the guy who drive the two mules. But Max, did you really need two mules? I don't know, but mules don't fly solo. So I just carried my camera some water.

It started off easy. The first two days were very easy but the third day was long and I stretched myself thin, laboring into camp. Added to this was the frustration of extensive miscommunication with my guide which caused me to be up on Kuari Pass with no jacket and no clue about where we were or where we were going. On Day 4, the plan was to reach the peak of Pargantula(sp?) at about 4700 meters. From the first few days and the look of the oft-visible peak, I decided this was going to be "easy". This was much like that time in college when I was about to play Trinity's #14 in squash and I had it in my mind that I was going to do really well. I was gonna play great, use all my best moves and get about 5 points per game. I think I got one point the whole match.

My body was pretty much dead from the first steps up, but we made a valiant effort. We got to a spot where we sat down for some lunch. My guide, Promoth, pointed up at the peak and said "I think no". I said "I think you're right", and we both lay back on the cushy, short bushes and fell asleep. Maybe another time I can post a picture of this peak.

For everything, jeep rides, forest pass, five days of guide, five days of mules, food for everyone, I paid about US$60/day. In the area of food, the service far exceeded my expectations. Breakfast daily was a big bowl of Ramen-like noodles but fatter with tomatoes and onions, an omelette and a bowl of hot cereal of some kind. Sometimes toast. Lunch was abit weak but it was a setup for dinner. Dinner, and this is just for me, was a bowl of Dahl, a big bowl of rice, 4 chopattis, like naan, sort of, a vegetable dish, papadums, a salad plate(cucumbers and onions), and then usually a bowl of hot cereal. Delicious tea was always served. It was all made fresh, pretty incredible. I'm not sure if I was weaker due to all veg diet, not sure.

Today was tough. We just plowed downward many thousand feet. At one point we rested and I asked the guide if we were halfway. He replied "no, no" and I knew from his history of answering questions that this could actually mean yes, no we already passed it, or no we're not there yet. Yes and no were interchangable. So were today and tomorrow. I eventually stopped asking. About halfway(maybe) along today, my right knee said "Hey Max, I'm finished, and Lefty's not far behind." As there was no 'Helicopter' button, I had to push them on. Literally, about 10 minutes from the village of Topovan, our terminus, I grazed my hand against a harmless looking plant whose tiny little barbs bit into my skin in four places. It burned immediately and swelled up. I showed Promoth, and to make me feel better, he replied "I think no".

All in all, it was pretty awesome. Please excuse my sharp tone. I'm pretty fatigued from the walking and 4 nights sleeping with nothing between me and the ground but a 1/4 inch foam thing. I tipped the guide and porter generously for their terrific service.

If anyone was interested, I'm in Joshimath, Uttrachan. Not sure about the spelling on the state. It changed between now and when my Lonely Planet was published. We're about 40km from China. To be honest and I'm surprised there's internet here, and it's actually not so slow. I was assuming the data for this post would have to be loaded onto a mule and carried off to another town, but I guess not.

I don't hate being in India, but it's tough. It's a lot to take all at once, and at time maybe doesn;t seem worth it. In Thailand, people smile, but in India people take you home. "Guest is God" is the rule here and it's taken very seriously. That love makes it worth it. I'm here til May 9 and I plan to put my time in and make it down to Agra to see the Taj Mahal. At this rate, I'm not sure when I'll be back in the area and I think it's a must see. (The rest of Agra is apparently not so pleasant.) All I'm saying is think long and hard before planning your vacation in India, and then come, with an open-ended ticket.

By the way, the view in the mountains was incredible. I'm guessing about that. Anything too far away was washed out in smoke and cloud. Too bad for everyone. Sorry. Hopefully we'll do some more pictures soon. Bye all.